Vita Apala Hello friends!
Christmas is approaching and every year I try to make a small gift to all my followers and fellow crocheters. This time, in collaboration with WeCrochet I decided to share a free pattern for crochet socks. You know, I love crochet socks! I like to make them and I like to wear them!
I am absolutely convinced, crochet socks might be as great as the knit ones. There are just a few rules to follow!
- Use sock yarn or fingering weight yarn; the smaller sts are more comfortable they will feel
- Don’t crochet too tight; socks shouldn’t be loose either, but if you crochet too tight, socks might turn out too stiff and not elastic enough for a comfortable wear
- While on the front part it’s great to have a nice pattern, on the sole it is better to have only single crochet stitches. You won’t feel them when walking
- While you crochet, try on socks frequently; it will help to see if any modifications are necessary
For my Spruce Socks I used Knit Picks Hawthorne Fingering Multi Yarn, from WeCrochet and I loved it (and it’s actually on SALE right now)! Not only colors are wonderful but the yarn feels great too. I can’t say for sure, but it feels very solid, which is great for socks as they might last and look presentable longer. These socks are unisex too, so will work for man too! And you can still make them on time before Christmas! 😉
Now let’s get to the pattern. You can download the printable version here, or see instructions below.
Sizes and measurements of finished garment:
Pattern is written for adult sizes Small, Medium and Large, and there are instructions how to enlarge calf if necessary
Length: 21 (23, 26) cm or 8¼ (9, 10¼) in (length is easy to adjust, but you will need more than one hank of yarn for a longer sock)
Width: 9 (9.5, 10) cm or 3½ (3¾, 4) in
Calf circumference: 21 (22, 23) cm or 8¼ (8 ½, 9) in
Materials
- approx. one hank or 357 yards (326 m) of any fingering weight yarn
Suggested yarn: Knit Picks Hawthorne Fingering Multi Yarn, shade Skyline, 80% Fine Superwash Highland Wool, 20% Polyamide (Nylon), 100g / 357y (326m)
- crochet hook 3.5mm or size needed to obtain gauge
- measurement tape
- 2 stitch markers
Gauge
12sts and 12rows in sc to measure 5x5cm or 2x2in
Stitches and abbreviations
st(s) – stitch(es)
yo – yarn over
ch – chain stitch
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
sp – space
sl st – slip stitch
WS – wrong side
RS – right side
Special Stitches
Front post double crochet (FPdc)
Yo, insert hook from front to back around next stitch, yo, pull through, three loops on hook; finish front post double crochet (FPdc) as normal dc
Back post double crochet (BPdc)
Yo, insert hook from back to front around next stitch, yo, pull through, three loops on hook; finish back post double crochet (BPdc) as normal dc
START
Sock is worked from toe up to cuff. Work both socks up to leg part first, then adjust the length of the sock depending on the yarn amount available
Pattern note: ch1 at the beginning of round or row doesn’t count as stitch
The sock is worked in continues rnds without joining (except for Cuff)
Toe
For all sizes
Rnd 1: ch7, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each of next 4ch, 3sc in last ch rotating to work back along the opposite side of the ch, sc in each remaining 4ch, 2sc in remaining loop of first ch (14 sts), don’t join but work next rnd
Rnd 2: 2sc in first st, sc in each of next 4sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next st and place a marker, 2sc in next st, sc in each of next 4sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next st and place a marker, don’t join
Rnd 3: * 2sc in next st, sc in each st to last st before marker, 2sc in next st, sc in marked st, move marker up *, repeat from * once more (22 sc)
Repeat Rnd 3 working 2sc in one st before and after each marker to 48 (50, 52) sts, stop when reached the right amount of sts even if you didn’t complete last rnd
Continue to work sc in each st to first marker of the rnd and continue with Main Part, remove the markers
Main Part
Mark 16 sts in the middle of the toe – place marker in 1st and in 16th sts;
Rnd 1: sc in each st to first marker, ch1, skip marked st (leave the marker to mark beginning of rnd), sc in next st, * ch1, skip next st, sc in next st *, repeat from * 6 more times, sc in each of next 32 (34, 36) sts; 48 (50, 52) sts, 8 ch1sp made
Rnd 2: * sc in next ch1sp, FPdc around next sc *, repeat from * 6 more times, sc in next ch1sp, sc in each of next 33 (35, 37) sts; 48 (50, 52) sts, 7 FPdc made
Rnd 3: sc in each st; 48 (50, 52) sc
Rnd 4: * ch1, skip next st, sc in next st *, repeat from * 7 more times, sc in each of next 32 (34, 36) sts; 48 (50, 52) sts, 8 ch1sp made
Repeat Rnds 2 through 4 working in a spiral until the toe part is 15 (17, 20) cm long or until you reach the length you need to get to the heel, in last repeat work Rnd 4 in the following way
Rnd 4: * ch1, skip next st, sc in next st *, repeat from * 7 more times, sc in each of next 29 (30, 31) sts, leaving 3 (4, 5) sc unworked before ch1sp, turn and work the Heel
Heel
Row 1(WS): ch1, sc in each of next 27sts, leaving 3 (4, 5) sc unworked before next ch1sp, turn;
Row 2 (RS): ch1, sc in first st, skip next st, sc in each next st to last 2sts, skip next st, sc in last st, turn; 25 sc
Row 3 (WS): ch1, sc in first st and in each next st, turn; 25sc
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 – 7 more times, decreasing by 2sts in every other row (11 sc)
Row 18 (RS): ch1, 2sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2sc in next st, turn; 13 sc
Rows 19 (WS): ch1, sc in first st and in each next st, turn; 13sc
Repeat Rows 18 and 19 – 7 more times, increasing by 2sts in every other row (27 sc);
Fold heel in half, RS together. Align top of the last row with bottom of the first row and join diagonal seams together working sl st across;
Fasten off
Calf
Join yarn into the left heel seem, and work as follows
Rnd 1: ch1, sc in st at the base of ch1, place a marker to mark the first st of rnd, sc in each of next 3 (4, 5) sc, sc in next ch1sp, * FPdc around next sc, sc in next ch1sp *, repeat from * 6 more times, sc in each of next 3 (4, 5) sc, sc into the heel side seam, work evenly 27sc across the heel; 50 (52, 54) sts
For a larger calf you can increase sts across the back of the sock, working evenly 2sc in one st as many times as needed to desired calf width
Rnd 2: ch1, sc in each st around; 50 (52, 54) sts
Rnd 3: sc in first and in each of next 3 (4, 5) sc, * ch1, skip next st, sc in next st *, repeat from * 7 more times, sc in each of next 30 (31, 32) sts (or to end of rnd, if you increased number of sts); 50 (52, 54) sts
Rnd 4: sc in first and in each of next 3 (4, 5) sc, * sc in next ch1sp, FPdc around next sc *, repeat from * 6 more times, sc in next ch1sp, sc in each of next 30 (31, 32) sts (or to end of rnd, if you increased number of sts); 50 (52, 54) sts
Repeat Rnds 2 through 4 – 4 more times or until desired length
Repeat Rnd 2 once more, and continue with Cuff
Cuff
Rnd 1: ch1, but pull it to the height of dc, dc in first st and in each next st, join with sl st in first dc; 50 (52, 54) sts
Rnd 2: ch1, FPdc around first dc, * BPdc around next dc, FPdc around next dc *, repeat form * to last st, BPdc around next dc, join with sl st in first dc, 50 (52, 54) sts
Repeat Rnd 2 – 3 more times or until desired length
Fasten off and weave in all ends
I hope you enjoyed it! Happy Holidays season!
I need help understanding this:
Repeat Rnd 3 working 2sc in one st before and after each marker to 48 (50, 52) sts, stop when reached the right amount of sts even if you didn’t complete last rnd. Continue to work sc in each st to first marker of the rnd and continue with Main Part, remove the markers.
So I got the 48 stitches. It’s one before the stitch marker. My question is, do I put a stitch in there to make it 49? Because that messes up the next rows. I don’t understand the last sentence “Continue to work SC in each stitch to first marker of the round”
No, you need to reach 48sts, then you complete the rnd working sc in each sc and when you arrive to the first marker you continue with Main Part.
I restarted again, my last round has 46 stitches, so I do another 2 to get 48. Then sc around until the first stitch marker?
Is 48 considered the last stitch of the round?
Yes, exactly. In total you need to have 48sts. And Main part you start from the first stitch marker.
I can’t get the correct number of stitches for Main Part Round 1. I’ve tried so many times.
I give up. 🙁
But why? When you increase you increase up to 48sts and STOP, even if you still want to increase when you are completing the round, don’t do it! You need 48sts! Then in Rnd 1 for Main part you work 1st per each st. If you work ch1, you skip one st, and work sc in next st. That’s it. Hope this helps.
I don’t know why? At the end of Rnd 1 of the main part I end up with 8ch spaces but a total of 46 stitches. ♀️ I don’t have have enough to do the 32 SC.
the pattern says after I’ve marked off the 16 stitches in the middle to do Round 1.
Rnd 1: sc in each st to first marker, ch1, skip marked st (leave the marker to mark beginning of rnd), sc in next st, ch1, skip next st, sc in next st, repeat from * 6 more times, sc in each of next 32 (34, 36) sts; 48 (50, 52) sts, 8 ch1sp made.
So how I understand it is once I have the 48, I mark to have 16 stitches in the middle of the toe, which means I SC 4 to get to the first marker of the 16 stitches, do the 8 repeats, SC in the next 32.
4+16+32 = 52.
Does the 4 SC at the beginning count as part of the next 32 SC ?
I am sorry, but I don’t really understand your question. When you work 32sc you will arrive to the first marked st, it will be your start for each next round. That’s it. You are working in spiral without joining and in each round in total you will have 48sts. So you can’t get it wrong unless you increase for some reason. You have 16sts for the front pattern, and 32sts for the sides and back.